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To find out how to get your vermicomposter off to a good start, we'll look at the various stages involved. The choice of location is strategic, and the start-up process is gentle. The species of compost worm you choose is important, as is the quantity you use. The frequency with which you feed your worms will also play an important role in maintaining the balance of your worm population. The first few days are crucial, and it's important to get off to a good start to ensure optimum decomposition of your organic waste over the long term.
1. Choosing the ideal location for your vermicomposter :
To begin with, you'll need to choose a location for your worm compost bin. This will depend on a number of criteria:
Temperatures
For optimum performance, ambient temperatures should be between 15 and 25°C.
- Below 0°C and above 35°C, your compost worms risk death.
- Between 0°C and 4°C, they hibernate.
- Above 4°C, they eat.
- At 14°C and above, they reproduce.
In winter, an outdoor vermicomposter will run more slowly and the level of organic waste will drop more slowly. This is not to say that it won't work, but you'll just have to be more vigilant because of the points mentioned above.
Bad weather
An outdoor vermicomposter needs to be protected from wind, rain and excessive temperatures. That's why it's best to place your vermicomposter indoors (kitchen, cellar, basement, garage, etc.).
Wind can dry out your vermicomposter; in fact, it's very common to have less vermicompost on a vermicomposter placed in an outdoor garden, as the bedding dries out with the air currents.
Conversely, rain can drown and asphyxiate the entire system. If you need to protect your vermicomposter outdoors, it's best to wrap a winter cover around it (taking care not to put anything on the lid vents), or place an umbrella or parasol over it.
Proximity and accessibility
It's a good idea to choose a location close to the kitchen, or wherever organic waste is generated, to make it easier to feed the vermicomposter. After all, you'll probably have to feed your worms several times a day. That's the difference with an outdoor composter. No more trips to the garden when it's cold in winter!
Your vermicomposter also needs to be easily accessible, so that you can move around it (to make your daily contributions, to harvest your vermicompost or for cleaning). Some models have wheels, others don't. A vermicomposter on wheels is easier to move around. Models that don't have wheels usually have their own permanent location.
Some lids hook onto the worktop and fall down, others hook onto the top and rise up. You'll need to take this extra space above your vermicomposter into account when you lift the lid to make your contributions.
2. Which species of compost worm is the best way to get started?
Our compost worms belong to the Eisenia andrei (or Eisenia foetida) species, the most commonly used of the 3 or 4 species used for vermicomposting worldwide, as they are found on every continent. They are hardy to extreme conditions, swallow half their body weight per day and their intestines, a veritable little waste transformation factory, also reduce the formation of odours and pollution that some waste may contain.
We don't breed Dendro (Dendrobaena veneta or Eisenia hortensis), which has a very elusive temperament and is less efficient at vermicomposting. It is much less efficient at composting, but still makes excellent fishing bait.
3. How many worms do I need to get off to a good start?
Under ideal development conditions, the worm population will increase over time. Your worms will self-regulate in their environment according to the space and food they have available, but also according to the temperature. Although the worm population will increase naturally over time, it's important to start with the right number of worms in your vermicomposter.
What we recommend:
- For 2 people: 250g of compost worms
- For 4 people: 500g of compost worms
- For 6 to 8 people: 1000g of compost worms
The compost worm strains we send you contain cocoons, babies and adults, as we believe that the first few weeks will be optimal if the different types of population are present in the bags. This speeds up the vermicomposting process. Our compost worms are shipped in their rearing substrate. They contain the bacteria and other macro- and micro-organisms needed to keep your vermicomposting system running smoothly.
4. Start the first work tray, start gently:
Whether you're using any type of vermicomposter (City Worms®, Worm Café®, Worm Box® etc.), getting started is the same.
- Assemble your vermicomposter according to the instructions supplied, and place a first work tray on top of your collection bin.
- Place a piece of cardboard in the bottom of your work tray, this will act as a litter tray. If you need to restart your vermicomposter, you can use our starter kit.
- Soak 4 handfuls of pieces of cardboard in a basin of water, this will act as starter bedding and raise the humidity level.
- Add your strain of worms and sprinkle the inside of the bag with a little water to remove any cocoons, babies and worms that may be stuck to the walls of the bag.
- If you have Vita'Vers granules, scatter one or two handfuls around your work tray. You can also use 1 small handful of eggshells.
Advice: This is an important and delicate step. We don't recommend adding anything for the first 2 - 3 days. This is because the worms have been somewhat stressed by transport, and the bedding needs to stabilize gently.
Video: "Getting started with the City Worms®" worm composter
5. When and how should I feed my vermicomposter? The first few weeks..
The frequency of feeding will depend on what you eat. You can feed your worms every day, or several times a day. However, you should never feed too much at once, and each time you feed your worms fresh waste, you'll need to bring along extra paper or cardboard. Cardboard is preferable to paper, as it absorbs moisture better. Also, beware of bringing in too much sweet waste, which could attract midges. This can easily be avoided by adding eggshells.
Cut your organic matter into pieces and count on a volume of 60% fresh waste to 40% paper and cardboard to obtain an optimum moisture content. But what does optimum humidity mean? Place your hand on the humidifying mat - it should be cool and damp! Also, earthworms need their skin to remain constantly moist so that they can breathe.
- On the first day, let them settle in quietly without adding any food.
- During the first week, give preference to soft, unsweetened waste such as salad leaves, carrot, cucumber or zucchini peelings. The first week is a tricky one: the whole community is a little disturbed, and the macro- and micro-organisms must gradually colonize their new environment.
- Over the following weeks, you can gradually increase the amount of waste in the bedding.
- From time to time, take a quick look at the collection bin and check that the compost worms haven't taken refuge there in excessive numbers.
NB: Worms don't attack freshly deposited materials and waste. This organic matter must first be softened and pre-decomposed so that the worms can digest it; this is the role of the macro and micro fauna in your vermicomposter. It's therefore normal not to see your waste and peelings diminish right away, and not to observe your worms on the material when you deposit it.
6. When should I add a new work surface?
On average, it takes between 1 and 1.5 months to fill each work tray. When the waste level is reached (see mark inside the trays), you can move on to the next level by adding a second work tray. And so on.
When you move on to the next level, don't add any more to the lower level - the worms, macro- and micro-organisms will take care of the rest! Let it decompose quietly. You'll be able to harvest your first harvest of vermicompost in around three months, then every month.
You can fit up to 5 work trays on a vermicomposter. No more than that, as the feet and castors won't support it.
Tips: Every 2 months or so, take a quick look at your collection bin by lifting the top trays. Some vermicompost may have settled to the bottom and blocked the tap. Also, stagnant water in the bottom of the bin could attract a few midges.
You can place the first handfuls mixed with potting soil in your garden to feed your plants, or store them for later.
To find out more, have a look at our other blog articles
See also the article: Outdoor worm composter - All you need to know
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