Your cart
There are no more items in your cart
My vermicomposter - FAQ
Starting my 1st worm compost bin
1. How do I start my vermicomposter?
Once you've assembled your vermicomposter, start with just ONE TRAY. Prepare a starter bedding for the worms (you only need to do this once, so there's no need to make new bedding for each new tray you install).
Round, square or rectangular cardboard packaging will come in handy: place it at the bottom of the tray; don't worry, it contains vegetable inks and the worms will eat it.
For the Worm Café, the bedding supplied is suitable for starting with 1kg of worms. For 500g of compost worms, soak the litter (10mn) and use only half. The other half can be used later, or even for your plants. Then pour the worms onto the bedding and, under a source of light, they will quickly hide there. Place the mattress on top, close the lid and voilà! Leave for a day before you start feeding them. The compost worms will gradually adapt to their new environment and therefore to the waste you start to dispose of (in small quantities at first).
For City Worms, the starting litter is cardboard packaging!
2. Feeding compost worms: what can you feed them?
Compost worms are omnivores and, like us, need a balanced and varied diet. If you eat well, they eat well too! You can give them (almost) all pre-meal leftovers (vegetable and fruit peelings). They'll appreciate it if you take the trouble to roughly cut up the peelings. You can also use leftovers from after meals, unsalted and unsalted (but beware of restrictions). After a brief adaptation period (3 to 4 weeks), the system will stabilize...
3. Do not put in your vermicomposter:
Avoid meat and fish, bones and bones, and in general any animal protein (dairy products, leftover sauces). Also avoid highly acidic foods such as citrus fruits (oranges, etc.) or large quantities of onions (peels are not a problem). Pet litter should also be avoided. Compost worms have no problem assimilating green waste, but your vermicomposter is not suitable for quantities greater than a few wilted flowers: green waste requires the use of a garden composter (see Q35)
4. How often should compost worms be fed?
Compost worms take a few days to adapt to their new environment, so start with moderate amounts (100 / 200g). They also eat more and faster if food is cut relatively finely. A stable temperature of 20°C suits them and will also improve their performance. There's no need to wait until the worms have consumed all their food before feeding them again. However, it is by no means essential to feed your worms waste every day (see Q10),
As far as possible, prefer moderate, regular feedings to 1.5 kg all at once!..
It's up to you to decide how often you want to feed your worms, depending on the amount of waste you have, the number of worms and the temperature.
5. Why add paper or cardboard to your vermicomposter?
Not lucky enough to have cereal for breakfast, compost worms love fiber, which they find in your cellulose waste. Each time you add peelings (which contain nitrogen), remember to add dry fibers (which contain carbon), such as cardboard from egg cartons, toilet paper rolls and packaging cardboard. Compost worms are a bit like us: they need fibers.
Paper and cardboard used to package foodstuffs must be printed with food-grade vegetable-based inks. Empty cartons from your kitchen will do!
It's good for aerobics... and the green/brown (nitrogen/carbon) balance.
6. Why should worms be covered with compost?
To retain and distribute moisture, we strongly recommend covering your worms. This also protects them from the cold in winter and from light.
That's why our worm composters come with a mattress. The worms love the flax and hemp fibers it's made of, and it will be eaten in around 2 months. Hemp has the advantage of attracting the worms to the surface, so that they also eat the freshest waste.
You can also recycle natural materials that "breathe", such as hessian, a floorcloth (with a non-chemical past!), a T-shirt or a tea towel, all of which are made from natural fibers that let in the necessary oxygen. Do not use synthetic fibers.
7. Do I need to water the vermicomposter?
Over 80% of kitchen waste is water. This water is released when the worms destroy the waste. So, unless you want to lower the temperature of your vermicomposting system in the event of very high outside temperatures, you'll never need to add water. On the other hand, in very hot weather, cardboard and paper may need to be wetted before being placed in your system. It's also important to place a dampening mat on the waste to encourage the worms to rise to the surface. There should always be some condensation (the moisture in the waste) under the lid, to ensure regular supply of liquid fertilizer.
8. When should a tray be added to the vermicomposter?
Vermicomposting requires the successive installation of different trays.
Be patient before installing a new tray: remember that the waste will settle. Our vermicomposters have marks on the inside of the trays, so wait until this mark is reached before placing the next tray. Don't add any new bedding, just place the new waste in the new tray. You can also take some material from your previous tray, so as to seed your new work tray with the micro-organisms and other bugs already present.
9. Micro-organisms: What are the other bugs?
Various micro-organisms work in your waste, helping to break down organic matter, and you don't need to remove them. An exhaustive list, with photos, is available on our Forum and in the " Compost worms " section of our website.
10. I'm buying a vermicomposter: can I still go on vacation?
Going on vacation? No need to contact your vet or look for a boarding facility for your little ones! Compost worms can go up to 6 weeks without food. They'll simply continue to eat what you've given them before. Don't forget to leave the tap running, with a large container underneath.
Harvesting and fertilizer use
11. What is vermicompost?
Vermicompost is the result of the digestion of organic waste by compost worms: "worm poo", as children like to say.
The advantages of vermicompost are numerous:
This organic amendment is much appreciated by professionals for its high content of micro-organisms and its many natural nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, zinc... Directly assimilated by plants, it can also be used on young adult plants, with no risk of burning.
Vermicompost also regenerates worn or impoverished soils, reduces transplant shock, and promotes rooting, germination and plant growth. It also facilitates water retention and reduces the use of phytosanitary products. Now you know almost everything!
Thanks to its remarkable qualities, you'll soon notice how healthy your plants are! To find out more, visit our " Vermicomposting" section.
12. How do we harvest the vermicompost in our vermicomposters?
For each of the vermicompost models we offer, harvesting is done per tray. The vermicompost is harvested when all three or four working trays have been installed and filled with waste. Allow a minimum of 5-6 months (for a family of more than 4 people) between starting up the vermicomposter and the first vermicompost harvest. Technically, each of the vermicomposters we offer has its own special feature to make harvesting easier (see instructions for use). Once your vermicomposter has reached cruising speed, you'll be able to harvest your vermicompost every 3 to 6 months or so. This depends largely on the number of people in the household, the amount of waste available to the worms and the temperature! Of vermicompost, each work tray will hold about 10 kg for a Worm Café or 8 kg for City Worms (about 14 liters for a Worm Café or 10 liters for City Worms). Vermicompost is best stored in a cool, dry place.
13. How do you separate the worms from the resulting vermicompost?
The worms are attracted to the waste in the upper trays. As a result, the vermicompost harvested from the bottom tray generally contains few worms. However, a few worms may still thrive there.
Place the tray to be harvested under a light source, at the very top of your vermicomposter: since worms are photophobic and therefore sensitive to light, they will burrow into the tray below. Gently collect the vermicompost as you go, in successive layers.
14. How to use vermicompost
Without moderation! For technical information on the different plants, please consult our Forum.
As a surface fertilizer: place a layer approximately 1 cm thick of vermicompost on the surface of the soil, covering the roots of your plant. Water in. With each watering, the nutrients in your vermicompost are drained back into the soil. Ideally, you should cover the vermicompost with mulch, to keep the micro-organisms out of the light.
As compost: vermicompost is an ideal base for mixing with compost. You're free to make your own compost recipe and mix it with other products, but the following proportions give proven results: For potting: 1 part vermicompost, 1/2 part sand (for drainage), 2 parts potting soil. For seeds: 1 part vermicompost (equivalent to 3 parts aged garden compost).
For native trees and fruit trees: apply 1 cm at the base and water thoroughly. Apply again if necessary, not forgetting to mulch.
15. What is the resulting liquid (worm tea)?
Sorry kids, it's not worm pee...: the liquid comes from the moisture contained in the waste, which percolates through the vermicompost, taking on the nutrients, minerals and trace elements present, as well as the good bacteria. It's like yoghurt... but black! Once the system is up and running, you'll be able to collect between 10 and 15 cl of liquid (worm tea) from the tap of your City Worms or Worm Café vermicomposter every day.
16. How to use compost liquid
Never use it undiluted! It can burn roots and leaves. You can use worm tea diluted 10% with water. Add 9 parts water to one part liquid. You can also use this mixture as a leaf spray. Some plants love it!
The same goes for the liquid, which you can store in bottles, dry and protected from light, for future use.
You can use the worm tea when starting up the system, for a few days. Sprinkle the tea over the fresh waste, allowing the good bacteria to break it down more quickly... just long enough for the starter worms to start reproducing well and do the work on their own.
17. My first worm compost juices
When the first juices from the vermicomposter are collected, you can pour them directly into your vermicomposter (without forgetting to lift the humidification mattresses).
This simple operation reintegrates all the micro-organisms essential to the process.
A little boost never hurts 😉
All about worms
19. What type of worms are we talking about?
The word vermicomposting is a false friend: if you know how to find earthworms in your garden, don't bother putting them in your vermicomposter! Your garden's anemic vermicus terrestris is an excellent digger that can aerate and nourish soil, but it would be inefficient and unhappy in a vermicomposter.
For vermicomposting, we use compost worms (or "manure worms"). Our compost worms belong to the Eisenia species, the most commonly used of the 3 or 4 species used for vermicomposting worldwide, as they are found on every continent. They are robust to extreme conditions, swallowing more than half their body weight per day. These veritable little organic waste-processing factories also reduce the odours and pollution that can be generated by certain types of waste.
We don't breed Dendrobena Veneta (bigger, less red and very elusive...). It is much less efficient for composting, but excellent for fishing... Cohabiting with another species makes it even more unstable (bigger, less red and very elusive...).
20. How many worms do you need to start vermicomposting?
It all depends on the capacity of your model, and your patience... don't forget that the worms reproduce in your vermicomposter.
Depending on the vermicomposter model and the size of your household, you can start with 250g, 500g or 1kg of worm biomass. That's why we call them Pack 250, Pack 500 and Pack 1000.
21. How do I get my compost worms?
You have two options:
1 - You receive the worms directly inside the vermicomposter.
2 - You receive them following a "worm supply" shipment.
In both cases, the compost worms are packaged in micro-ventilated bags containing 250 or 500g of biomass (including eggs, juveniles and adults) in their rearing substrate.
We schedule delivery of your order with you as soon as we receive your payment, and commit to delivering within a maximum of 15 days. We carry out our own quality controls at the start of each delivery, and take care to select our carriers for their speed and rigor.
Our little friends who leave our premises on Tuesdays will reach you at home between Wednesday and Friday!
If you can't make it, we offer you the "Relais Colis" option, which allows you to pick up your parcel close to home.
22. How long do compost worms live?
Compost worms live for an average of 2 to 5 years, much less than their ploughing cousins, earthworms (around 7 years).
23. Can I mix or collect worms, and for what uses?
1- NEVER mix two species in a system, as this will disrupt it. In fact, the system will be less efficient, as reproduction between species (between a Fetida and an Andrei, for example) can lead to a first generation of sterile worms. The system will be slowed down. We never mix two species in our deliveries.
2- You can collect worms from time to time, since worms reproduce inside the vermicomposter, but be patient! Wait a few months... then you can take a handful to go fishing! ... or to give to your child's teacher as a gift. They can also be used to start another vermicomposter..
24. Vermicomposting: Is there a risk of overpopulation?
Don't worry! Worms reproduce rapidly, but they have the wisdom to regulate their numbers according to space and food availability. They double their numbers every 2 to 3 months or so. But no, you can never have too many worms!
25. What about acidity?
The pH of your vermicomposting system must remain neutral (pH 7): worms don't like an acidic environment.
A handful of pellets (or eggshells or calcified seaweed) every week will balance out the effects of overly acidic food.
26. Want to know everything there is to know about compost worms?
You'll find plenty to satisfy your thirst for knowledge in our "Compost worms" section!
27. Any other technical or practical questions?
Take a look at our Frequently Asked Questions, or get in touch with us!
Why choose a vermicomposter?
28. What is vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting is easy! You put peelings mixed with cardboard, and thanks to the worms, you get vermicompost and liquid fertilizer.
In more scientific terms, it's a natural process called bio-oxidation, in which organic matter is stabilized by the combined action of micro-organisms and worms.
29. A necessity of our time: reducing waste at source, starting with the garbage can
To optimize our biowaste management and avoid polluting nature unnecessarily, it's vital to rethink the way we manage our organic waste.
The amount of waste you can divert depends on several factors: the capacity of your vermicomposter, the inputs you make, the quantity of worms at time "t" and the ambient temperature. In theory, worms eat more than half their body weight per day..
In practice, households that have weighed the waste disposed of in a City Worms or a Worm Café report weighing between 8 and 15 kg per month from the 1st year, i.e. over 100 kg of waste per year!
30. Vermicomposting: What do we harvest?
You can easily obtain free vermicompost (the best natural soil improver there is!) and worm tea (see Q11 and Q15).
Knowing the price of this black gold in specialized stores, you'll understand that your purchase will quickly pay for itself: each tray harvest provides you with 10 or 14 kg of vermicompost (depending on the model), and you can get up to 3 or even 4 harvests a year.
As for the liquid, you'll easily get 10 cl a day.
If you don't use it all, your neighbors, family and friends will appreciate these gifts.
31. But does a vermicomposter smell bad?
And no! In fact, it's anaerobic bacteria (which thrive in an oxygen-deprived environment) that give off an unpleasant smell. In this case, the bacteria that develop are aerobic; add the action of the enzymes present in their intestinal transit, and you get a pleasant smell of humus (walk in the undergrowth, mushrooms...mmh!). The other micro-organisms in the vermicomposter, which help to break down the waste, also need oxygen.
32. Won't the worms escape?
The worms are in a confined environment (all the better depending on the vermicomposter's closure system), safe from predators, with plenty to eat and copulate!
This risk, which most often occurs in the very first few days (as the worms are not yet acclimatized), is widespread with species such as Dendro and almost non-existent with Eisenia, and also depends on the "tightness" of the vermicomposter model.
33. Can vermicomposting be done indoors?
That's what makes vermicomposting so special!
The kitchen is the ideal place for vermicomposting, since bio-waste is produced there. Of course, it's a "sensitive" interior (just like a classroom or a store), and you'll need to take simple steps to avoid the appearance of midges. Depending on the space you have available, choose the model with the right footprint.
But your compost worms will do just as well in your cellar, storeroom, garage or any other well-ventilated room. They don't need light, but oxygen to live.
Good ventilation is therefore essential; check that there are air inlets at the top and bottom of the worm composters.
34. Can vermicomposting be done outdoors?
Vermicomposting can also be done outdoors, whether on the ground or on a balcony or terrace.
But if you leave your worms outside all year round, it's best to provide them with a roof to protect them from the rain: worms are like frogs! They can tell you it's going to rain by climbing under the lid, even before it rains. In the wild, this prevents them from drowning.
If you've set up your vermicomposter in your garden, it's best to bring it indoors during cold spells, so that the worms can continue processing your waste. Worms hibernate at around 4°C and can die below 0°C. To protect them from the cold, use a blanket (even a used one - don't hesitate to recycle!) around the vermicomposter. You can also increase the heat inside by adding a thick layer of waste. As our vermicomposters are easy to transport, you can also take them to a warmer place.
Above 35°C, they will die. In summer, place your vermicomposter in the shade and sprinkle with water to lower the temperature.
35. Composting and vermicomposting: what are the differences?
Composting takes place exclusively outdoors. It's the accumulation and alternation of layers of biowaste (from the kitchen) and green waste (from the garden) in the form of a heap or inside a composter, which needs to be stirred and watered most of the time. Alternating "green" and "brown" waste is essential for the process to run smoothly. After a temperature rise phase (sometimes up to 70°C), the waste is gradually transformed into compost, thanks in particular to the action of the compost fauna (bacteria, fungi, insects and compost worms).
Vermicomposting is a "cold" method, as there is no temperature rise (which in no way prevents the elimination of pathogenic bacteria, as in conventional composting). The resulting vermicompost is stable, rich and directly assimilable by plants.
Vermicomposting and composting are in fact more complementary than competitive!
Each has its own specific advantages and disadvantages, which often complement each other:
A composter will accept slightly more bio-waste than a vermicomposter, and a vermicomposter will give you two types of fertilizer more quickly. It'll also save you the hassle of winter outings!
(Find out more: "Composting")
36. How do you compare vermicomposters?
A vermicomposter can be "self-made": a manufactured model must therefore offer added technical value, a guarantee of practicality and reliability.
Our vermicomposters are specially designed to house compost worms and facilitate their maintenance. Please refer to the instructions for each model to discover its technical features:
-Micro-aeration for aerobic conditions
-Dome in the liquid collection tray to allow worms to rise to the top
-Watertightness and functionality of the lid
-Work trays with inner notches to let you know when to add a new tray
-Spigot for easy harvesting of liquid fertilizer
In the case of the Worm Café, the useful capacity of the trays is 14 liters, making it the largest model on the market.
The City Worms, on the other hand, is designed for smaller spaces and features a shelf and castors, a significant advantage in terms of practicality! Each tray has a capacity of 10 liters.
37. Which vermicomposting pack should I choose?
The use and maintenance of a vermicomposter is really minimal and straightforward: there's no need to stir or water as with traditional composting.
All our vermicomposters come with a starter litter and a humidification mat to facilitate start-up.
If you already have the right worms, we offer a range of packs.
The number associated with the pack corresponds to the quantity of worms (see Q20)
If you're a novice, we recommend the Comfort Pack, which also includes Vita' Vers Plus, which will come in handy, especially during the first few months: this mixture is specially designed for worms.
It also facilitates vermicomposting by :
- Absorbing and regulating the humidity contained in waste (sometimes excessive in summer), while promoting aerobics (presence of oxygen).
- Balancing the ecosystem by adding dry matter in the form of fibers
-Regulating the pH of the ecosystem by adding calcium (a role also played by crushed eggshells) (see Q25)
- Attracting worms to the freshest waste in the upper tray(s), with ingredients particularly appreciated by composting worms (wheat bran, alfalfa)
- Allows worms to be fed in case of prolonged absence.
The City Worms is supplied with 1 kg of Vita Vers Plus.